Here we go.

08 June 2012

weekend memorialized

Started the holiday weekend strong with an unintentional 5 hour dinner w Jonathan at his parent's home for whom he was house sitting.  It was one of those meals where you start off on the patio, sip on cool drinks for awhile and then have an appetizer.  Back to the patio for more drinking, then have a salad.  Drinks, then debeard the mussels.  Drinks, make tomato broth & toast bread.  Cook mussels, bon appetit!  More refreshments on the patio and then, finally, dessert.  At that point, I was beyond.  I was so sleepy and all of my limbs were dead weight - in a really good way.  You definitely can't do a progressive meal like that without good company & great food and we were rich in both.  I just hate that we only get to see JT a couple of times a year, but when we do, it's usually some of the most memorable times.
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Roadside Arkansas peaches on homemade shortbread w whipped cream:
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ATM w sweet sweet Arthur:
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Sadly, I couldn't really sleep off that blissful heaviness because we had to get up early on Saturday to drive to Natchez, MS to meet up with my sweetheart in-laws.  I've never been to Natchez and didn't know what to expect, but was spot on about the heat/humidity.  Lawd!   The Eola Hotel served as the meeting place and watering hole.  From there, we had lunch at the Magnolia Grill, which is excellent, but I knew that I would be getting down & dirty with some rich, southern foods on this trip, so I just got a strawberry/spinach/praline/bleu cheese salad, BUT, in my heart, I really wanted a poboy. 


After lunch, we visited the Grand Village of the Natchez Indians, which isn't really much of anything (a small museum with old displays, a mound, a reconstructed hut), but I did enjoy learning about the Natchez months and havin' a go at grounding corn on the museum's hands on 'touch table'.  After that, we visited Longwood, the only antebellum house we toured.  During our tour,  I grew confused because our guide never really mentioned slavery; she kept using the term "servant(s)".  It was my hope that she was not using it in lieu of "slave(s)", because A) the term "servant" is hardly any better than "slave" and  B) that revisionist language, no matter how slight she believes it to be, is remarkably offensive and wrong.  I feel it's a deliberate attempt to change opinions without the remorse or apology.  It's a weird denial.  Perhaps she was trying to be polite, but at such a cost!  No one has forgotten the South's legacy.  I did a little internet search to make sure I was understanding correctly and not rushing to ("lib-tard") judgment.  One really long exhale.  According to the Mississippi Dept. of History and Archives, Longwood was started by an architect and artisans from Philadelphia; they completed most of the exterior of the mansion.  After they fled at the start of the civil war, the residential basement portion of the home was completed by slave, not servant, labor.  Outrage!  There's no need to lie or coverup the atrocities!  We really should've pressed and asked questions, because revisionist language does not belong on any historical tour, but I settled for exchanging knowing glances with ATM instead.  No need to make an ass out of myself in front of family members, right?  One really long exhale.  The mansion, the kitchen (a separate building), carriage house, grounds, etc.  It's all so big, I can't imagine how many people it took to keep it functioning and maintained.   


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All bricks were made on site:
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Photography of the first floor is not allowed, but anywhere else is fair game:
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Shipping crates of yore:
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Spanish moss dripping from almost every tree on the property:
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Dry moat:
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It was not mentioned on the tour, but was brought up by my mum-in-law that the exterior of Longwood was shot as vampire king Russell Edgington's house in True Blood, which is awesome and hilarious.
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After Longwood, we drove up to this kudzu covered crest with a lovely view of the river & bridge:
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Townie:
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Across the street from our botel (bed & breakfast + hotel):
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From Under-the-Hill Saloon:
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Next morning, we had brunch at Stanton Hall in the Carriage House:
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Walked through the ornate St. Mary Basilica:
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Holy water:
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I didn't even know what the Natchez Trace was until we got on it.  The dozen miles or so we drove on is tree-lined and curvy, a very intoxicating combination for this passenger.  It's very easy to let your mind relax and wander.  Reminds me of Arkansas scenic routes.  Anyway, you can sometimes glimpse through the woods and see the original trail, permanently etched into the land from heavy foot traffic.  


We pulled off the Trace to peep Emerald Mound.  Unlike Arkansas, they actually let you climb the ancient mounds in Mississippi:
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Doesn't look so big, but it's a climb:
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The top.  I didn't take photos of the view because it didn't look extraordinary, really:
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After walking around in the ridiculous heat like that, we beelined to Fat Mama's Tamales for icy beverages & A/C.  We picked up some tamales to go, natch.  They are quite good, we ate them all in one sitting.  I can also vouch for their pralines and fire and ice pickles, which you can purchase by the jar.  I wouldn't leave Natchez without stopping by here.
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I love the vibrancy of Mexican oil cloth:
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Properly wrapped tamales to go:
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Before we departed from Natchez, we stopped by this cute bookstore called Turning Pages Books on Franklin St. where ATM's mum got him this rad gardening book that is very inspiring and straightforward with practical advice.
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The bookstore had a really pretty courtyard that is essentially what ATM and I desire to have in our backyard eventually.  Arkansas stones, hydrangeas, hostas, and ferns:
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Oh, also worth noting is the excellent dinner we had @ The Castle located on the grounds of Dunleith.  They have a great decent wine selection.  You can't get too fussy with Southern home cookin', but they do pretty well.  They've got good collard greens that you don't even have to season with more hot sauce.  Natchez is a weird town that reminds me of a clean New Orleans without the party.  It's very OLE MISS.  I will say that Little Rock wins the battle of the seer sucker suit, I only remember seeing one fella wearing it.   


Back in Little Rock on Memorial Day, we went to Aaron, Brittany & Steven's house for some grill time and communion.  We hooked up a mister to the hose.  It's pretty essential, guys:
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Grilled clams w herb butter:
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Porch:
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I was pretty maxed out from the trip to Natchez, so I probably wasn't too much fun, but I did have a pleasant time and also, there were two desserts.  

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